Epicuriosity

Mark has been talking about Mohammed Ali street since we had our tickets to Cairo (February). This is a famous street in Cairo that is known for it’s musicians, instrument makers and pretty much any thing Middle Eastern music related. So, we headed that way. We got out of the taxi and we were definitely not in the touristy part of town. Fruit stands, ladies selling bread on the street and bicyclers balancing huge trays of bread and food who were weaving through the sea of people and cars. As we walked we saw a ton of furniture makers and shops, we were really hoping the music stores had not all disappeared. We had asked one of our tour guides about the street and she said she thought all the music stores were long gone, but we really wanted to go there anyways…just in case. Ah-ha! There was one, and another. We found the reminisce of this once bustling musical street. Some of them were selling keyboards and drum kits, so not what we were looking for. Most of them were selling and even making Ouds. We walked past one store and you could see the whole family (including a young boy) making beautiful Ouds. I picked up some zills for a friend and we continued our stroll. Mark checked the doumbeks in a few stores, but the quality wasn’t what he was hoping to find. I mean, we are in Egypt, on the famous instrument maker street. Where the heck are the drums?? We walked into the last store and Mark began inspecting the drums again. The owner said “I have higher quality in my house. I don’t put them out here because people copy my designs. Would you like to come see?” And against our better judgment, once again we were following a strange Egyptian man through the back streets of Cairo. As though we had not learned our lesson in Luxor.  Through a narrow passage and up a dark staircase we entered this man’s home. He brought out a few drums. They were the most beautiful drums ever. Mark began to play and the guy kept bringing more out. All with very intricate and gorgeous designs. He asked where we were from and we said “America”. He said he has a cousin in Chicago and a friend in LA. His friends name was Souhail Kaspar! YES! REALLY! Mark told him he was a student of Souhail’s and they are friends as well. The guy said he designs and makes all of Souhail’s drums. OK, so the very freakin drum Mark has and plays all the time is designed by this guy we happened upon in a little shop and we were now sitting in his home. How do these things happen?! Amazing! Needless to say, we walked out of there with a couple of new doumbeks. One in which Mark is currently the only owner of the design. How very cool!! We still don’t know exactly how we will get them home, but we’ll figure it out!

Every Wednesday evening there is a free show of Sufi dancers at this 600 year old building connected to a mosque. Again, something we always wanted to see and the fact that it was free, well, these things just don’t happen in Egypt. We got out of the taxi and had no idea where to go, this man asked if we were looking for the dancers and when we said yes he took us right to the place. Usually this is where they ask for a tip. Even if they just point you in the direction they expect a tip. Instead he asked us if we wanted to see the handicraft street where people are making copper and other things. Sure, why not. So here we go again, following a man through the back streets of Cairo with no idea where we were or where we were going. I just knew we had not been mugged or anything yet so what harm would it be. This little old man spoke English so well. He told us all about the area, the building where the dancers would be, introduced us to all the workshop people we passed (like we were his new best friends)  and then took us to a coppersmith. We met and watched the men make copper lanterns. What art, what patience, how beautiful. These men learn from their fathers, who learn from their fathers, etc. A very old art still being done the same way after all these years. No machines. A piece of copper, a design and a saw. Wow. Then we went to see a man that was making mother of pearl and camel bone inlay-ed boxes and other wooden things. We saw the actual camel bone that he uses and watched him glue the little designs in the chess set he was making. Again, he learned from his father and his brother had a workshop a few blocks away (we met and bought something from him). This unexpected field trip was so awesome! The little man took us back to the old building and of course, we gave him a nice tip. You just can’t get that experience from a tour guide and certainly not on your own. I am so grateful that little man took us to all those places. THAT’s the Cairo I wanted to see.

So we walk into this huge, very old building and waited for the show to start. The musicians came out and as soon as they started Mark’s jaw dropped. It stayed dropped for the entire hour of the show. The musicians were the best we had ever heard, ever. The dancer came out and he spun for 40 minutes. All the while the musicians were playing, other dancers were circling him and playing frame drums. I can’t even explain this experience. Mark and I both teared up. The show continued with more music and different dancers. Mark managed to get some audio so I hope it came out ok. I’m going to stop here about this because no matter how hard I try, I just can’t describe the feeling that came over us at this show. THE best experience ever (besides our wedding day).

Too high on life to sleep, we ended the evening with tea and shisha. We had an early train ride to Alexandria in just a few hours!